Grape expectations

(Hospitality Today)

You can take the man out of the winery, but it seems you can't get him out of the vineyard.

Several years after he tore out all the vines on his Matua Valley property, New Zealand sauvignon blanc pioneer and industry legend Ross Spence is planting grapes again, with an eye to "having a play" with unusual varietals. If his instincts prove good, he'll put the results on the market.

"It's very hard to get out of the (wine) industry completely," he says. "It's such a dynamic, exciting industry."

Last year Ross stepped down from the board of Marlborough vinery Rapaura Vintners, along with his formal ties to the family company, Matua Valley. But he's far from finished with wine.

"Growing grapes is such a wonderful time-wasting hobby, if you like. It's so much fun growing and making something that's exciting."

Ross looks forward to experimenting and creating new New Zealand wines that showcase unique New Zealand characteristics, such as "wonderful highlights of fruit" and stronger general character.

Among the plantings in his home vineyard are some "very old French varietals" and grapes not common in New Zealand, including tannat, petite syrah, temperanillo and viognier.

"Viognier is one that's having a comeback both in Australia and New Zealand, and throughout the world," he says.

"The world is now looking for something different, something new."

Like sauvignon blanc, the "lovely, fragrant" viognier grape is easily recognisable, which is why people like it.

"But it's often too aggressive for some people and needs toning back with a more neutral grape, like chardonnay."

For Ross, winemaking is all about producing a harmonious balance and character. He agrees that creating subtler, easy-drinking blends may be the next development in Kiwi wine.

"Today, people work to bring out those aggressive characteristics. Wines win medals because of impact rather than drinkability – some Australian reds, for example, are so big and heavy that one glass is enough. But I believe that with a good wine, you should be able to finish a bottle and think about opening another one."

In 1960, when Ross started viticulture studies in Fresno, California, it was a positively odd career choice for a Kiwi boy, but winemaking is in his blood. Ross' Croatian grandfather had a small winery in Henderson, and his father also had an interest in wine.

Back then, most of New Zealand's wine production was fortified wines. Watching the switch to predominantly table wine has been "quite exciting", he says.

"All the changes along the way have been fascinating. It's a shame it didn't happen quicker than it did."

Ross believes New Zealand would already be a world leader in wine were it not for "visionless politicians" who couldn't see wine's potential as an export product in the past, and now tax it heavily.

Despite this, and a glut of wine on the international market, he feels New Zealand wine is holding its own. The freedom to experiment and make use of new technological developments frequently allows us to beat Europe at its own game.

"The French are under quite heavy constraints and I think they've become totally bogged down (with tradition). They haven't advanced as far, and their technology in a lot of cases is not up with the standards of viticulture now used in New Zealand, Australia and California."

But Europe continues to offer plenty to the wine lover, particularly the light, easy-drinking reds Ross is currently quaffing.

"I drink very widely. I do drink quite a lot of Australian reds, but I'm finding those somewhat intense now, especially during summer, so I look for a lighter red."

When not in the vineyard, Ross is in his three-acre garden or, when necessary, at his computer keeping up with his investments. The latter, he says, is "a boring task" compared to making wine.

"I just like the excitement and involvement. I can't resist it!"